The significance of Bridal
Jewelry made and owned in India extends beyond the realm of personal
adornment to encompass social customs and craft practices as well as stylistic
and technical developments. Indian
Bridal Jewelry is both utilitarian and a distinct marker of social status. Bridal Jewelry Sets are often
personalized with engraved inscriptions or monograms that help to tell its
story. The history of jewelry in India illuminates international trade
practices, for although many objects were made in this country, others were
imported from abroad. Exotic materials in particular, such as coral, helmet
conch shell, and diamonds, could often be acquired only from afar.
The Indian Bridal Jewelry industry gradually grew from small workshops to large factories and
from handcrafts man ship to increasingly mechanized production. By the
mid-nineteenth century, Indian jewelers were able to supply their patrons with
a wide range of objects, including gold and silver jewelry and medals; hair
jewelry to memorialize or honor a loved one and brooch-and-earring sets inspired
by French or English models. Seed pearl jewelry) became fashionable during the
Federal period, particularly as gifts to a bride. This jewelry, made from
hundreds of tiny pearls imported from China, remained popular into the early
twentieth century.
At times the jewelry industry has benefited from scientific
developments, made from India rubber treated with sulfur; Vulcanite provided a
durable and practical substitute for imported tortoiseshell. Diamond jewelry
became very popular during the nineteenth century, spurred by growing
prosperity and increased supplies worldwide. Colored gemstones were also highly
prized. Late-century jewelry designs, including Egyptian and Renaissance revivals,
reflect contemporary interest in historical styles. During the 1880s, a fashion
arose for jewelry made from ancient coins or for die-stamped silver discs
imitating coins. The centuries-old process of die-stamping was both efficient
and affordable, and silver became more readily available to Americans following
the discovery in 1859 of the Com stock Lode in Nevada.
At the end of the nineteenth century, jewelry designers were
embracing the Art Nouveau style with its interest in natural and asymmetrical
forms. More humble materials, such as enamels, opals, moonstones, and baroque
pearls, replaced diamonds and precious stones. One of the most talented and
experimental artists of the period, Louis Comfort Tiffany, turned his attention
to jewelry design around 1904, producing exquisite creations inspired by nature.
Developing alongside Art Nouveau was the English-born Arts and Crafts movement,
which strove to revive handcraftsmanship in an era of increased machine
production. Somewhat less free-spirited than Art Nouveau designers, proponents
of the Arts and Crafts aesthetic shared their passion for nature, modest
materials, and artistic freedom. Although these design movements waned after
World War I, Americans’ enthusiasm for handcrafted jewelry remains to this day.
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